Going all out for New Year's Eve

Even though we have kept our New Year's Eve menu shrouded in secrecy we are now fully booked for that night.  I'm excited about the food that we're going to be cooking so here's a sneak peak.  Raw materials are arriving.  Prep begins in earnest tomorrow.  I was going to start on the boozy gingerbread steamed pudding tonight but I was unfortunately stymied by a lack of fresh ginger.  So, I blog instead.

Four geese going in brine soon.  They will then be air-dried in our cooler overnight before getting roasted whole.  Raised free-range in South Dakota by the Schiltz family, we got these beauties along with a healthy 30# bucket of goose fat, some fatty goose livers, and some goose wings.  We're not sure where the goose wings will end up yet but I'm excited about the possibilities just having them nearby.  Goose wings!  Who has ever had those?

We also have some really wild wild rice, not something that you have probably ever had, vastly different from the paddy grown "wild" rice that is readily available.  I've been bugging Millar to get some of this for years, since my days at Journeyman, and he finally ordered it for me.  We cooked some of it today, tossed in some herb butter and salt.  Really delicious.  I don't remember exactly but I think Brittany said it was "off the hook."

Other highlights: whole trout wrapped in prosciutto, confit pork shoulder, brussels sprouts with bacon, and roasted heirloom squash from Trillium Haven Farm.  Brandon's making sausages, Blair's making truffles, Chef is braising and roasting everything in sight.  And in the end we will set that steamed gingerbread pudding ablaze with some bourbon. 

Oh, and I think there will be some wine to go with the food, too.

Reserve's Farms: S&S Lamb

Death to stagnation! I would be writing about how great potted pig's tongue is, or would be, but Chef thinks it may not sell well. He's probably right, unfortunately. If, however, any readers would show interest via comment, perhaps you may see it after all. Our charcuterie should rightly have something that scares you. Something that makes you bring it up to your friends, or at the office. It makes you wonder what it's like..how gross and alien you perceive it to be. Then, after all this deliberation, you might have worked up the nerve to actually try it, and possibly even like it. I suppose I'm beginning to rant a little, but I feel better, and you are still reading. So, let us talk about one of our farmers.

Pierre and Sharon Schierbeek & Family operate out of McBain, MI. Their land and animals are chemical free. Their animals fertilize their pastures as they graze on their land from spring to fall and their winter feed is harvested from their farm. They do not use hormones, antibiotics, supplements, or additives in their feeds. S&S lamb grow happy and healthy in this natural environment through their lives and after finishing they are processed by L & J Meats in Lake City, MI. Afforded humane butchering practices, these combined practices from farm to table directly translate the care and quality that has been invested into them.

At Reserve, we have cultured a good relationship with Pierre and his family and operations. We are currently talking about having Pierre raise specific breeds of hog for us better suited to our culinary aims. Those breeds are still being discussed, but Duroc and Berkshire are looking like good candidates. S&S Lamb are just one on many farms we use at Reserve, meshing well with the ethics we look for in sourcing our foods. They also supply us with the rabbit that has been on our menu lately, and eggs from time to time.

In addition to lamb, eggs and rabbit, S&S also sells beef, chicken, and goat. From cuts to wholes and halves and even some pet products as well. Their eggs are a steal at $3/dz when clearly inferior eggs are sold for more at the supermarket. They also sell 100% wool products harvested from their ewe flock. Find them at the Fulton Street Farmers Market every Saturday through the winter. Their store can be found here if you'd like to cook at home. If you'd like us to cook for you, well, you know what to do.

SUCKLING PIG

These two cuties come to us courtesy of Cherry Capital Foods. They are new a supplier for us, and so far have hooked us up with quail, a mangalitsa, smoked lake trout and whitefish, rabbit, and a few other tasty creatures all raised right here in Michigan. Their entire product line is comprised of Michigan meats, fruits, vegetables, grains, etc. and it was a great score for us to connect. But more on them later.

Suckling pig, as the name implies, is a very young hog raised solely on mother's milk and slaughtered before six weeks of age. They are usually quite small, under 20#s or so, and it's fairly rare to see them around on menus these days in West Michigan. The flesh is a beautiful, light blush pink and quite tender throughout. Sucklings are almost always cooked whole. Part of the attraction of cooking one is the show of bringing it in it's whole roasted glory to the table. The rest of course lies in the experience of eating it.

Because the animal is young, the muscle contains an enormous amount of collagen, a protein that when cooked turns to gelatin, giving the meat it's contained within (and its juices) a very full body and mouth feel. It is soft and rich, and because its diet is strictly milk, a very clean, slightly sweet flavor. No looking for the subtleties of chestnut or acorn finishing here. This is straight pork.

Suckling pigs are still eaten commonly in many parts of the world, central Europe, southeast Asia, Cuba. In the U.S., they were  once popular tailgating food and often graced a table in the American south when larger groups assembled. In Europe, they are commonly eaten at Christmas, at one time nearly as popular as roast goose.

Right now the piggies are having a stretch for two days before going into a mild brine for four. After the four day brine, they will hang again for two to dry slightly and let the salt even out. Then into the oven for a long, slow roast, finishing hot to provide plenty of crispy skin.

Next Friday and Saturday night, we will be serving the suckling pig at the apex of our first in house event in the wine vault, an extraordinary room downstairs that is usually only available for private functions. The menu is the same each night and includes paired wines. The dinner is limited to twelve people each night. This is a rare experience and it would be a shame to miss it.

CANAPE
Oyster with tomato and horseradish gelee
Midnight Moon gourgere with local chevre, truffle, and herb
Crisp pork rillon with fig and blue cheese
Poached farm egg yolk with piperade

SOUP
Pumpkin soup with lemon curd and pumpkin seed oil

PIGGY
Whole roasted suckling pig
Warm, house made apple sauce with pan drippings
House made guanciale braised Brussels sprouts, turnips, and carrots with Saba
Watercress, cheddar, walnut, pear, and pickled red onion salad with walnut vinaigrette
Celery root mash

DESSERT
Warm apple charlotte with rum raisin ice cream and Blis "Elixir"

Click here for more details, or to book a seat. Space is extremely limited.