SUCKLING PIG

These two cuties come to us courtesy of Cherry Capital Foods. They are new a supplier for us, and so far have hooked us up with quail, a mangalitsa, smoked lake trout and whitefish, rabbit, and a few other tasty creatures all raised right here in Michigan. Their entire product line is comprised of Michigan meats, fruits, vegetables, grains, etc. and it was a great score for us to connect. But more on them later.

Suckling pig, as the name implies, is a very young hog raised solely on mother's milk and slaughtered before six weeks of age. They are usually quite small, under 20#s or so, and it's fairly rare to see them around on menus these days in West Michigan. The flesh is a beautiful, light blush pink and quite tender throughout. Sucklings are almost always cooked whole. Part of the attraction of cooking one is the show of bringing it in it's whole roasted glory to the table. The rest of course lies in the experience of eating it.

Because the animal is young, the muscle contains an enormous amount of collagen, a protein that when cooked turns to gelatin, giving the meat it's contained within (and its juices) a very full body and mouth feel. It is soft and rich, and because its diet is strictly milk, a very clean, slightly sweet flavor. No looking for the subtleties of chestnut or acorn finishing here. This is straight pork.

Suckling pigs are still eaten commonly in many parts of the world, central Europe, southeast Asia, Cuba. In the U.S., they were  once popular tailgating food and often graced a table in the American south when larger groups assembled. In Europe, they are commonly eaten at Christmas, at one time nearly as popular as roast goose.

Right now the piggies are having a stretch for two days before going into a mild brine for four. After the four day brine, they will hang again for two to dry slightly and let the salt even out. Then into the oven for a long, slow roast, finishing hot to provide plenty of crispy skin.

Next Friday and Saturday night, we will be serving the suckling pig at the apex of our first in house event in the wine vault, an extraordinary room downstairs that is usually only available for private functions. The menu is the same each night and includes paired wines. The dinner is limited to twelve people each night. This is a rare experience and it would be a shame to miss it.

CANAPE
Oyster with tomato and horseradish gelee
Midnight Moon gourgere with local chevre, truffle, and herb
Crisp pork rillon with fig and blue cheese
Poached farm egg yolk with piperade

SOUP
Pumpkin soup with lemon curd and pumpkin seed oil

PIGGY
Whole roasted suckling pig
Warm, house made apple sauce with pan drippings
House made guanciale braised Brussels sprouts, turnips, and carrots with Saba
Watercress, cheddar, walnut, pear, and pickled red onion salad with walnut vinaigrette
Celery root mash

DESSERT
Warm apple charlotte with rum raisin ice cream and Blis "Elixir"

Click here for more details, or to book a seat. Space is extremely limited.